Celebrating history with a special menu at The Ivy Restaurant

Brighton and Hove was a busy place in 1917 when iconic restaurant The Ivy first opened its London doors. Apart from the First World War raging on the continent, the country’s last electrobus started on its final journey from Hove to Brighton, a baseball game was played between US and Canadian troops in Preston Park, Brighton stationed here as a result of the war, and soldiers spent time recovering from injuries sustained at the Front in our very own Royal Pavilion whilst it serves as a convalescence home.

At the same time, and whilst the First World War was raging across the Channel, an Italian named Abele Giandolini and known since as “Monsieur Abel”, opened a new restaurant which aimed to exude luxury and style.

His guests were greeted by a sea of impeccably dressed attendants, and the air was filled with the sounds of live music and the clinking of crystal glasses. This discreet and stylish location became an immediate hit in the capital, drawing in socialites, celebrities and the crème de la crème of society.

107 years later, to celebrate the expansion of its restaurant collection across the country, select venues have launched a new 1917 menu paying homage to the classics created over the last century, priced at £19.17 for two courses. Taking place now and until Friday 9 February, this event includes Brighton’s The Ivy in the Lanes.

My companion and I dropped in mid week to explore this new offering. We first perused the bespoke 1917 cocktail menu created in collaboration with Bombay Sapphire Gin and St Germain Elderflower Liqueur. I enjoyed a Marlene Dietrich’s Glitz comprising gin, aromatic bitters, pear syrup and prosecco which I was most content with.

We also ordered The Monsieur Abel, an alcoholic homage to The Ivy’s progenitor incorporating gin, sweet vermouth and a bitter aperitif which may or may not have been Aperol. We both enjoyed these very much. Other famed personas from this era include the Cecil Beaton Spritz, the Laurence Olivier Special (The Larry?!), and his former wife Viven Leigh’s Elixir.

This select menu additionally offers truffle arancini, and zucchini fritti as sharing snacks for the table. Three bespoke starters are wild mushroom soup with mascarpone, duck liver parfait which my companion wolfed down.

I requested the hot smoked salmon rillette with avocado, basil pesto and pumpernickel plate.

Trying the parfait was a delight, the caramelized hazelnuts gave the dish a real bite and the apple and apricot chutney spiced things up. I enjoyed the salmon and the piquant dots of pesto, and the mix of the pumpernickel was a new approach to this as a starter. We slowly savoured these along with our cocktails before moving on to the main course.

Four options make up this 1917 menu here and include The Ivy’s very popular shepherd’s pie made with braised lamb and beer and topped with a cheddar mash in a rosemary and wine sauce. For the vegetarians there is a baked butternut squash offering with mixed grains and pomegranate and feta, accompanied with a harissa dressing.

My companion selected the grilled beef steak with wild mushroom sauce and accompanied by truffle and parmesan chips. I was only able to sample one of these chips as they disappeared so quickly, but they were crispy, flavoursome and really heavenly. I would definitely order those next time!

I ordered the pan-fried sea bream with a tasty aubergine puree base, toasted almonds and a mediterranean salsa of shallots, black olives and tomato.

I confess that rather than opting for a different side plate, I ordered chips too, although mine weren’t as fancy as my companion’s, they were still crispy and enjoyable.

We sampled the house white wine to go with the main course which was a fruity, semi dry Spanish wine and which proved a suitable accompaniment for both the meat and fish courses. I would be happy to order this again.

Three dessert offers make up the remainder of the menu (for an additional £5), these comprise a pudding of frozen berries with a yoghurt sorbet and drenched in a white chocolate sauce. I elected for the sticky toffee pudding with salted caramel sauce, dates, clotted cream and gold flakes. I say elected, I had to fight my companion for this choice, and I’m glad I won as it arrived in a beautifully presented cloche which when removed allowed the steam to soar over the table in a cinematic gesture. The third dessert choice was creme brulee with a caramelised sugar crust which was served cold rather than hot which was unexpected but tasty nonetheless.

This really felt like a lovely treat in the depths of winter. In spite of the January lull, the restaurant was well attended and the low murmur of conversation felt cosy and enjoyable. The bright, artistic aesthetic helped to complement this enjoyable dinner.

This month is a challenging time for the bank balance but this 1917 menu at The Ivy (£19.17 for two courses) is a great way to treat yourself and enjoy some very affordable luxury!

Restaurants participating include: The Ivy Chelsea Garden, The Ivy Café Richmond, The Ivy Buchanan Street Glasgow and The Ivy Montpellier Brasserie Cheltenham as well as Brighton’s own The Ivy in the Lanes.

Information

The 1917 set menu runs until Friday 9 February 2024, from 11.30am until close.

The 1917 set menu is priced at £19.17 for two courses or £24.17 for three courses.

To book, click here.

Images by Nicola Benge.