This week I was lucky enough to banish the January blues with a trip to Dishoom’s new ‘All-Day Bar Cafe’, Permit Room.
Inspired by post-Colonial India’s prohibition era, when alcohol was served in clandestine ‘Aunty bars’, the venue takes Dishoom’s world-famous Bombay-inspired cuisine, but gives it a playful and quirky twist, with a whole new menu, utterly original cocktails, and an ambience that transported us a thousand miles from the cold, damp Brighton winter.
The food-and-cocktail bar, on East Street in Brighton’s South Lanes, is Tardis-like, with lovingly-picked, eclectic decor harking back to 1930’s India – think dark wood panelling, ceiling fans, and books by Arundhati Roy in the toilets (a lovely touch, although it did make me wonder how long they expected one to spend in there).
Window-facing tables in the first space look over the street for people-watching, behind which lies the mezzanine, with an opulent cocktail bar, giving out onto several cozy eating areas at the back, including a space that could host larger groups.
The joint was jumping, full of a buzz that made it hard to believe the festive season was over.
We were greeted by smiling waiting staff and had soon been served our starters of cocktails – powerful, intriguing and almost certainly unique: cashew eau de vie, ‘monsooned’ coffee, dark rum, garnished with cardamom coconut foam, or infused with lemon oil, these were creations you sensed had been enormous fun to create.
There were also a range of equally grown-up alcohol-free cocktails, such as the No-Hafta-Kiwi-Colada, each playfully referencing India’s rich culinary and cultural heritage.
Our mains were presented in the style of funky street food, but were well-thought out, and, without trumpeting the fact, all vegetarian. With an eye towards sustainability, there was minimal meat on the menu, with no compromise in choice or, as it transpired, flavour.
We had Dishoom’s signature Black Daal, a rich, unctuous slow-cooked belly-warmer, a creamy Cauliflower Moilee, and a Jackfruit Berry Pulao which made up for its slightly underwhelming appearance with a mighty chilli kick.
We followed these with another round of cocktails – Orange Wine Margarita, Chai Caffe Martini and an Aunty Bar Coffee – a frozen daiquiri of coffee with sweet double cream swirled on top.
Sadly these left us no room to try to desserts, the descriptions of which were amusing to say the least: a ‘warm dark rum ball’ with ‘inner creaminess’, a jaggery-topped baked custard, and a strawberry ice-cream accompanied by a ‘shakey floral jelly’ of orange blossom.
You sense the creators of the menu have a sense of humour, which adds to the sense of grown-up fun about the place.
The Permit Room also aims to woo the daytime crowd, serving breakfast from 8am: think Bacon Naan Rolls, Masala Beans and hot spiced Chai (offered ‘bottomless’ for those wishing to use the space as a co-working venue, which is encouraged).
There’s a roof terrace too – offering space heaters and blankets, naturally, while you wait for summer. I’m already planning my next visit, and it will definitely be sooner than that.
