REVIEW: SORA @Malmaison, Brighton Marina
Gently pumping beats, fresh and tangy cocktails and delicious sushi served up while looking over the Brighton Riviera sounds too good to be true, but with SORA’s takeover of Malmaison at Brighton Marina this was exactly the scene this Thursday.
Being one of a lucky few to attend the celebration of the takeover, I was lucky enough to see for myself what the hotel meant when they said I wouldn’t recognise the space when I walked in, and they weren’t wrong.
Pops of colour, Japanese blossom and a low hum of music- it’s a spectacular space to walk into. Even on a rainy day this interior would pop, but luckily for us the sun was shining so the first sight was the beautiful vista.
So many people were milling around on the terrace. Some had grabbed a comfy sofa to squish on, everyone was enjoying the food and the ambience.
It felt more like being at a rooftop bar, than a hotel in the marina.
Brighton Marina is many things. Growing up here in the 90s it was predominantly empty, only three bars and a floating Chinese restaurant for diners. The massive redevelopment promised many eateries for Brighton but delivered chain restaurant after chain restaurant.
It feels now like it may be finally having a moment.
“SORA is a big part of Malmaison,” Nick Bosse, GM Brighton Malmaison said to those gathered at the event.
“It has been a very successful restaurant in our two other locations and we thought we would give it a try down south. What better property than this?” he asked.
While Bosse reaffirmed that this was a takeover and not a permanent fixture, he added: “We will review after it has run and then we will see whether it is something Brighton really wants.”
The takeover started this week and will run until the end of August.
On to the food.
The food has been incredibly well thought out. The menu is built around a sharing plate experience. There’s no fuss, just cool food with exceptional presentation and seasoning.
We tried fresh Vegan California Rolls (pictured) and Crispy Fried Spiced Tuna Rolls (background).
The vegan rolls were made with pickled mooli, avocado, cucumber, sesame, sweet chilli mayo and Shiso. The tuna rolls were delicious. Crispy and moreish, the combination of the tuna, cucumber, spring onion, gochujang, crispy leeks, shiso and sesame really popped.
I was told that the salt atop the rolls – tabarashi – was sourced from Japan.
But this is not only a sushi bar.
SORA also operates a Robata grill, which meant that we were also encouraged to try sticky pork belly, which was delicious and served with burnt apple puree, as well as Wagu sliders and chicken yakatori, which was served with tamarind and peanuts.
My personal favourites of the cooked food came from the kitchen. Delicious katsu chicken thigh bites served in a mango and coconut sauce was exceptional. Not cloying or heavy, but light and perfectly seasoned.
In terms of something for those with a sweet tooth, we were treated to stem ginger marshmallow, served with an almond crumb and chocolate sauce. My favourite was a delicious passion fruit, miso brulee.
And while the food was exceptional, I think it is the atmosphere and the location which will bring in the crowds.
It is a three-tier experience, with different vibes as you take in the lounge, the terrace and the restaurant.
DJs will play Friday through to Sunday, with the resident, Chris, playing Saturday night and local DJs showing up on Fridays. A Saxaphonist will also be at the venue.
Book soon though. It will fill up quick.
SORA at Malmaison Brighton Marina will run until August 31.
Reservations for SORA Brighton are now open via SevenRooms:
