Revealing St. James’s Street

As soon as we met our tour guides, we knew we were in for something a little different, and a little fabulous. Dressed in matching sizzling pink, Alfie Ordinary, Alex Fincher and Billie Gold were there ready to pose for a photo and corral their troops. Equipped with glamorous headphones, an extremely well-produced map and even a specially recorded catchy jingle included, we were off to explore. They tell us we are going to go see some of the good old days with some good old gays. Perfect.

This walking tour was organised by Queer Heritage South, who have been collecting stories from the heart of Brighton’s queer community. The event celebrates one of Brighton’s most iconic areas, which has been at the centre of the gay scene for decades. By curating oral histories from residents, bar staff, performers and characters, this tour is more than just a list of venues but an insight into how the area has grown and developed, and why it has been important in so many people’s lives. It is part of this year’s Pride Week Celebrations.

Whilst St. James’s Street is familiar to everyone who lives here, there are hidden gems throughout, some venues that no longer exist, others that are thriving. Our headphones provide personal accounts of nights out and sticky situations, told by real voices who were there at the time. They are both humorous and touching, whilst not shying away from the more seedy side of the street’s history. We are taken into some venues, allowed to linger outside others, and the stories keep coming. What really makes it fun is our tour guide, Alfie, whose lighthearted tone and witty personal asides link the monologues together and give us a sense of place. We hear some salacious stories, say hello to drag queens we meet along the way –  all part of the history and the way the street works today.

The tour takes us to the top of St. James’s Street, shows us the poignant HIV/AIDS memorial gardens, shows us Brighton’s oldest continuously operating venue and rounds off with a song and dance session in The Queen’s Arms, one of Brighton’s oldest drag venues. By the end of the tour, there is a real sense of community within the group despite the fact we’ve been listening intensely to other people’s stories. As performers, each of the guides can deliver on their cabaret skills, but more importantly, they are emphasising the value of the history that has been collected and our shared past.

Whether you are someone who has been part of the St. James’s Street scene all your life or someone who just loves Brighton and all our colourful history, this tour is a warm and personal journey told with conviction and warmth. It places St. James’s Street alongside Stonewall and The Castro, and whilst the our old street may not be as smart as other parts of Brighton, these stories show why it maintains its important status.

Thoroughly recommended. We hope that more stories will be collected and further events organised as their archive grows.